Eyeliners are a great way to bring focus to your eyes. But how do you apply them when you wear glasses, or your skin appears more wrinkly and soft? Join us in this wonderful conversation with professional makeup artist Arianne Poole, who has some great techniques to share. Enjoy the show!

 

Margaret Manning:

My guest today is Ariane Poole. Ariane is a good friend of Sixty and Me. She is a celebrity makeup artist who is now helping real women to feel more confident about beauty and makeup. I’m so happy to have you here again, Ariane.

Ariane Poole:

I am so happy to be here with you, Margaret, and the whole community as well.

Margaret:

I think what makes you a great makeup artist for older women is not that you understand the techniques, but that you also know the psychology behind why we want to do makeup in our 60s.

Ariane:

Absolutely. I think a lot of younger people think that once you reach a certain age, that’s it. We’re here to prove that’s actually not the case. As a matter of fact, we’re vibrant, we’re vivacious, we’re doing lots of things that the youngsters probably think are shocking, but we just think it’s normal.

Margaret:

I agree with you completely. So, let’s talk about eyes today. We call them the doorway to our soul. They really are what people look at and connect with.

But, I know a lot of older women are afraid to use eyeliner as they get older. We used to do it all the time when we were younger. It was one of our main accents. How come we don’t do it now?

Ariane:

The main reason is that the technique we were using in our teens and maybe through our 40s, is not serving us any longer. We need more definition now than we did then, because the natural definition that we used to have seems to fade away with age.

You can use a pencil, a gel pen, a liquid liner or a felt-tip pen. You can choose the one you feel comfortable and confident with. I’ll show you the pencil and the felt-tip because they seem to me the easiest to do. My first choice is a charcoal-gray pencil.

Margaret:

Let me just mention that one of the challenges of older women, like me, is that we wear glasses. So, you have to go a bit by feel and use something that you’re comfortable with. Don’t go with the felt-tip if you think it’s not going to be steady. Start with a pencil first.

Ariane:

Exactly. So, I have my pencil, and it’s sharp but not pointy-pointy. I hold it horizontally rather than vertically, and I don’t point it straight at me because that’s scary. Then, at one time, as I was plucking a hair from under my chin, I noticed my eyes were semi-closed. Since then, I use this technique to apply my eyeliner.

The other thing I want to mention is that you shouldn’t keep on going down, like you used to do, because now your eyes go down naturally. Instead, just stop slightly short of the end of your lashes. When you open your eyes, you’ll see it doesn’t look weird, but very nice, and it kind of uplifts your eyes.

Margaret:

So, you’re not going by touch, you’re actually looking in the mirror?

Ariane:

Yes, and I can see my eye really well. Don’t try to do a sweepy line either. You’re bound to mess it up because it’s really hard. If I’m doing someone else, I do it in little lines. Also, if you’re older, your eyes aren’t as taut, so the line won’t turn out good. Just do a stroke and you’ll be fine. Then you do the other side in exactly the same way.

Margaret:

I’d just like to mention that because our eyes are not as taut, it’s a great idea to use a pencil that’s a bit creamy when you test it on your finger.

Ariane:

Yes, it can have a creamy, long-lasting effect. There are so many great ones out there, and you don’t have to buy a big brand. Local companies have great products too. But yes, it should feel soft when you put it on your hand – it should glide, not drag. You should get a great line without any pressure.

Now, if you want to do underneath, use the pencil vertically, and just apply it under your lower lashes, but not all the way in.

Margaret:

Gray does make such a difference, as opposed to black, doesn’t it? You really don’t get that harsh line.

Ariane:

Black can be too fierce. If you are a woman of color, or if you’ve got a deeper skin tone, you can go for the black. But for fair-tone skins – especially if you’re going gray, or white, or you’ve got salt-and-pepper hair – you can’t wear that really heavy black, unless it’s in the evening and you’re going for something really dramatic. That’s on an occasion, though, not for every day, whereas I could do this look every day.

The same thing holds true for felt-tip liners. There are so many great ones out there, and my advice is to choose the color that you like. If you don’t like the gray, you could go with a purple, blue or navy blue. All of them look sensational.

And again, use the same technique as with the pencil, but don’t apply the felt-tip liner with a stroke. Rather, just apply it in dots to form the line.

Because you’re staring at yourself in the mirror, you’re not blinking, and you don’t have to pull your eyes to the side and then contort yourself in a funny position to actually apply your liner.

Margaret:

And I noticed you were very gentle, and yet you didn’t have to keep going back to correct it or make it more pronounced. You did it in one stroke with the pencil, and with the little dots with the felt-tip. You didn’t have to correct yourself at all.

Ariane:

Yes, but even if you smudge it or it’s not quite to the base of the eyelashes, take your fingertip, or a cotton bud, and just rub it softly to smooth it over. That will give you a soft blur rather than a harsh line.

Margaret:

I think that’s really great advice. Another option is powder – if you don’t want to use a pencil or a felt-tip.

Ariane:

Or you could use your eye shadow or those gel liners that come in the little bottle.  You’ve got so many great options out there.

Margaret:

The two options you’ve given us are pretty good though. What do you think about putting the eyeliner on the inside rim of the eye. Do you recommend that technique?

Ariane:

Well, it makes my stomach go crazy. But I was a teenager in the 70s, and that’s how we applied it back then. But I’m very squeamish with eyes, especially my own. So, what I do instead of applying a black hole, I apply the liner just on the lower rim, then squeeze my eyes tightly, and it transfers on top without need for application.

Margaret:

Oh, I hadn’t thought about that. It’s actually a great idea because then you get a very subtle look. I always think think that if you’re going to put the pencil in your eye, you have to keep it very clean. It really seems dangerous, so thank for the tip!

Ariane:

If you’re using a pencil, sharpen it every time you’re going to use it. You’re going to sharpen it, use it, then sharpen it again before you put it away. When you get it out again, sharpen it first, then use it. I know that’s a lot of sharpening, but it actually gets rid of the bacteria.

Margaret:

As always, you’re full of ideas, Arianne, and that’s what we really like about you. It’s not so much about the product, though it does matter what quality products you use, but you give us great application ideas and techniques we can use with confidence.

Ariane:

I also want to share with you and your community that there are always ways to get around any kind of concern or issue. Nothing is unsolvable.

Margaret:

True, and makeup is meant to be fun. Thanks so much, Ariane. You always share great advice with us. I’m sure people are really going to appreciate it.

Are you an eyeliner person? How do you apply your liner? Do you have difficulties with blinking and looking for ways to best apply it so it doesn’t smudge? Please share your comments and concerns below!

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