Eyebrow issues are very common for us older ladies. Common complaints include thinning, greying or uneven eyebrows. Join us in a discussion with professional makeup artist, Ariane Poole, who has a few tricks up her sleeve for how to make our brows look fuller, darker and more symmetrical. Enjoy the show!

Margaret Manning:

Hello, everyone! This is Margaret Manning with Sixty and Me. This is the place where women over 60 come to be inspired.

Today our guest is Ariane Poole, who is one of the most amazing makeup artists in the world. Hi, Arianne.

Ariane Poole:

Hi there. Thank you very much for the nice words.

Margaret:

I really enjoy talking to you. We’ve been working together for about three years now, and I love sharing with you the questions that come up in our community. The topic that I would like us to chat about has to do with eyebrows.

Everyone knows that eyebrows really frame the face. It’s important to shape them right. Some people though, myself included, have uneven brows. They literary are not on the same level. The other issues I wanted to address today are the thinning and graying of the eyebrows. Let’s talk eyebrows!

Ariane:

I’ve got all of those issues.

Margaret:

No you don’t! You’ve got lovely eyebrows.

Ariane:

Oh, no. I have eyebrows like everybody else, but I actually fill mine in. The key is filling them in correctly. For today’s demonstration, I will need to wipe my eyebrows off.

Margaret:

I’ve left mine pretty light today because I was hoping that while we chat I would be able to use some of the techniques that we talk about. Somebody actually e-mailed me, and I know she meant it with a good heart, but she said, “Margaret, your eyebrows are not even.”

Ariane:

You know what, Margaret? Most people’s eyebrows are not even. You’re not an odd one out. You’re in the gang.

Margaret:

I’m one of the gang.

Ariane:

I need to fix the redness that’s there because of the wipe. I will use the mineral pen that I’ve talked about in other interviews to get rid of the redness.

Margaret:

Honestly, everyone should have that product in their bag. It’s amazing.

Ariane:

We’ve also added an ingredient that mimics Botox. It actually acts as a muscle relaxer. I use this always around my eyes, and my clients always say, “Ah, it looks like I’ve been Botoxed.”

Margaret:

Yeah, I use it under my eyebrows and over the wrinkles.

Ariane:

Now that I’ve cleaned and prepared by brows, you can see that they are different.

Margaret:

I can see the difference now.

Ariane:

My brow has started to fade away towards the end. This is not from over plucking. This is just ageing. Those of us who have over plucked in the past have that really thin brow and brows don’t grow back. This is not what’s happened with me, though.

I hear this from women all the time. They go, “But I’ve never plucked my brows. I’ve never gone crazy, and this is what is happening.”

Margaret:

We lose hair, though, in general. It’s a part of our body ageing.

Ariane:

Absolutely. If it were on my legs, I would be a little bit happier. We really could do a swap. You can see I’ve lost a lot of hair on the outside of the brow. I’ve lost some on the inner side as well, and I’ve got a lot of white eyebrows. I stupidly thought, “I’m gonna pluck the white ones out, and I’ll get brown ones back.” It doesn’t work like that, unfortunately.

Margaret:

I did that, too.

Ariane:

Did you? You would think that I should know better. I’m just like everybody else, though. We all think, “If we remove it, some will grow back and they will be a better color.”

Margaret:

Mine just didn’t grow back and here lies the problem.

Ariane:

That’s even worse. You don’t want to have any patches. There are a lot of products on the market, and I’m going to show you quite a few different ones. First of all, let’s talk about Gimme Brow, which is by Benefit.

I really like this product. It’s got a nice little wand. You use it going backwards, and then you fill in and comb your brows. If you’re trying to create the illusion of having hair, this is a great product to reach for. It’s almost got that look of fiberness in it that makes the hair look denser.

Margaret:

Is that transparent, Arianne?

Ariane:

It’s blond. They do blond and brunette, and I think they do a darker color as well.

Margaret:

That’s Benefit.

Ariane:

Yes. That’s the Benefit one, and it’s called the Gimme Brow. Next, I’ve got several by Stella, which I really like. I’ve also got one from a company called By Terry, who invented two shade cloth. Their product is like little felt tip pen.

Margaret:

It’s tiny.

Ariane:

It is teeny tiny. It lets you paint in the little eyebrow hairs. You’re just feathering in those brows with the little felt tip pen, which has got a really good effect. This is the By Terry product.

Stella also do something very similar, which I also like. Their pencil comes in lots of different colors, and it too has a little felt tip. When you apply it, it looks almost like a stain on your eyebrows, and they’ll stay put. They won’t move around. They’re really fantastic for filling in gaps.

The next thing I want to show you is a brow balm. I use one from my range. It’s what I had on originally, before I wiped my brows. I use it by dipping my little ended brush into the brow balm. Then I brush my eyebrows down, and I follow by edging along the top of the brows with the balm.

This fills in the brows, and it also creates that little hair effect as well. When I brush my eyebrows back up again, you can see that I’ve got them elongated at the ends. Then I would fill up a bit more on the inner side.

You can see that there are lots of different products out there.

Margaret:

Do these come in light colors as well, Ariane? That’s a big challenge for me and many other women who are going grey or choosing to go grey. We need a very light brown color. We cannot really pencil in or shape with a felt tip kind of pen.

Ariane:

There is a blond one in the By Cherry and also in the Stella. We have a blond one as well.

Margaret:

I actually have one I just purchased. It’s the drug store brand called Essence, but the idea is the same. I have a spot in one of my eyebrows that is very thin. Following your advice, I should use that little felt tip pen just to fill it in and then brush down and then across.

Ariane:

For your face shape, with uneven brows, you should choose the one brow that you like the best.

Margaret:

I like the left one the best.

Ariane:

What you want to do is make up the other brow look like the one you like the best.

Margaret:

I’m hoping other people will find this useful because we have had so many questions about thinning eyebrows. The strategy here is the same.

Ariane:

This will make the eyebrows look fuller. You saw how thin mine are, and when I take my makeup off it’s a whole different me that’s sitting there. What I would suggest, if you’re struggling with getting your eyebrows even, choose a white pencil. I have one in my brand, but you can use a white pencil from the brand of your preference.

Margaret:

I don’t have a white pencil, but I’m taking notes. Which brand are you using for this demonstration?

Ariane:

I will use the Arianne Poole one, but there are lots of white pencils out there. This one is ophthalmologically tested, so it’s for the eyes. Mac also have one for the eyes, I believe. There are other companies that do them as well. However, make sure your white pencil is not a nail pencil. You use those for the manicure under the nail. It’s not safe to apply those on the eyes.

When you use the white pencil, you have to be aware of your face shape and modify the brow that you like the least so that it matches the better one. In your case, you’ve chosen the brow on your left as your favorite brow. With the pencil, make a line to mark the inner side of your brow, then repeat on the outer side.

My face shape is round, so I want a little bit more of an arch, and I tick that off underneath the brow. To get the brows even, lay the rear of your pencil along the brow that you like, so that the tip of the pencil reaches the other brow. Then mark the desired arch height there.

For you, Margaret, this might mean that you put less on the brow that you don’t like. You might need to pluck just a couple of hairs from the top of your less favorite brow.

Margaret:

The left one, it’s thinner.

Ariane:

Yes. Your left brow has a little bit of hair just above the line of the right brow. I would pluck it out on the top. I know there are people going, “Ah, she’s saying to pluck from the top. That’s terrible!” Not in this case.

Pluck that out and then fill in from underneath because you want to bring that brow down a little bit, rather than bringing the other one up.

Margaret:

That’s really interesting. I’ve never thought about it this way. I was thinking the complete opposite.

Ariane:

Yeah, and most people do. It’s up to you to decide which brow you like. It really doesn’t matter. To get them even though, that’s what you do: just lay the white pencil across from the better brow, with the tip pointing toward the ‘worse’ one. Mark the height with a dot so you know, “Oh I need to pluck out a little bit here.”

With my eyebrows, if I don’t remove hair from the top of the right one, it goes up like a point. It makes me look like I’m being quizzical and I’m not. So I take a little bit of hair from the top. This doesn’t affect the shape of the brow, only balances it.

Margaret:

So then you have to add something underneath.

Ariane:

Yes. You would want to add a little bit of fullness here underneath, to make the brows even. When I teach makeup lessons, it is not unusual to have people with non-symmetrical eyebrows. As a matter of fact, it’s the norm.

What I gave you are good guidelines of how to balance your eyebrows by yourself. It’s different when you’re doing someone else.

Margaret:

That is so helpful. I actually can’t wait to get off the call to try it out. As you were talking though, I was thinking, “We are talking about eyebrows. The world is going crazy, and here we are, thinking about eyebrows.” But why not?

Ariane:

We should make ourselves feel good, so we can go out into the world and project goodness around us. It’s not narcissistic. It’s to make ourselves feel good about who we are. When we feel good and love ourselves, and I don’t mean narcissistically, we go out and do good in the world. As far as I’m concerned, it’s purely for the benefit of all.

Margaret:

I totally agree, and everyone who was stuck with us for the last ten minutes is probably as committed about it as we are. People who don’t wear makeup have probably left this a while ago.

This was great. Thank you so much, Arianne. Any last minute thoughts that I missed out on eyebrows? I think we’ve covered a lot.

Ariane:

No, I think we got pretty much all of those.

Margaret:

Thank you everybody for the questions. I hope this has been helpful. Thanks, Arianne. You’re wonderful.

Do you love your eyebrows? What is your favorite eyebrow makeup product? Ariane’s eyebrow makeup techniques were great – do you think you would try them out? We would love to see the results! Please join the conversation.

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