I love nature, but I live in the city I love silence, but I am surrounded by noise I love to listen, but I am drowned by my own thoughts I love play, but I am forced to work I love giving, but I am with a taker Why have I done this to myself? Today, I begin.
I was tired. I, like so many of us, raised my children as a single mother. Ran a business, started a second business, ran that until both ran me. Many of you will agree that life usually doesn’t get easier as you get older; it gets harder. It’s a different type of harder though, filled with emotions and problems you would never have foreseen in your 40s and 50s. It’s a myth that one day everything will be smooth and easy, including living alone.
In early 2020, I felt nudged to move abroad. Rather than wait to find someone to move internationally with me, or continue in a life that felt old, I shrugged and resolutely packed my bags.
I bought a ticket to Ecuador.
In 2022, after my daughters went off to college, I gave all my furniture away to my neighbors who had just bought a house. They didn’t have enough money to furnish it, so they rented a truck, pulled it up to my back door, and removed everything. This could’ve felt like a stripping down, instead I felt overwhelming relief that my belongings were gone. I felt free, unburdened. Then I boarded the plane to Ecuador and haven’t looked back.
Living solo in a foreign country is akin to the night before getting married. You are excited for the future, but also know it’s going to be a bumpy ride. Here in Cuenca, Ecuador, there are over 10,000 expats from the United States and Europe who are either retired or nearly retired, so there is no dearth of interesting people to connect with. Everyone is an outsider and eager to help, make friends, and sample the latest cake and coffee shop on the corner.
After 24 hours in Ecuador, I found a furnished loft apartment near a bird park in a quiet part of town. I live alone but can be surrounded by friendly locals or expats whenever I feel like it. If you are a social butterfly, you will feel right at home with a full social schedule! The local population doesn’t really mind that we are here and put up with our spanglish and idiosyncrasies well enough.
For example, my gringo neighbors wanted hot water in the kitchen. This might seem like a necessity in the western world, but here, and in many countries, it’s not important. I lived in the UK for 4 years in the early 1990s, and we never had hot water in the kitchen. It took too long for the water heater to heat up and subsequently caused the water bill to be higher, so no one cared about hot water for dishes.
My neighbors in Cuenca, fresh from Atlanta, had a mild temper tantrum over the issue of no hot water in the kitchen and caused our mutual landlady to roll her eyes in disbelief.
Now they have hot water in the kitchen, but are moving because they want a bigger kitchen. Gringos.
Perspective can be a challenge when living in a third world country. Here in Cuenca, we have farm raised fruits and vegetables at the outdoor market about two blocks down. They are so fresh, most are still laden with dirt. My total food bill for the week is around $50 USD, with no GMOs or “why does this food look fake with no flavor or nutrients” going on.
Everyone who moves here loses weight and feels better, causing many a happy fist pump! What a concept. So you have to accept the good with the maybe not so good or mildly different and you will be fine.
A common phrase is, “Roll with it.” If you can’t roll with it, don’t come.
What about relationships if you don’t want to stay solo? I have a close friend in her late 60s who says she has had more sex since moving to Cuenca than ever in her life, and she was married for 10 years. It’s a wonderful thing that most Ecuadorian men don’t give a flip how old you are; they are passionate lovers of all.
A word to the wise; don’t look for commitment (from the locals) or timeliness. Ever. Roll with it.
As for myself, I like being solo. The silence is beautiful, and when I need some community, it is available with little effort. There is always a party happening someplace in this town, and if you speak Spanish, you will never be without an activity or a super cute player to flirt with. Which begs the question, are any of us lonely or missing our kids and grandkids? Most of my friends are solo, so I asked them about this.
Across the board, my peeps sometimes feel lonely, but are so engaged with life they don’t dwell on it. I’ve learned that the keyword to enjoying life abroad and staying connected with family back home is budget. You concurrently save a ton of money on nearly everything, and then spend it on international travel. That being said, everyone becomes a genius at finding cheap flights and working the system as much as possible.
Key words: “roll with it” and “work it”.
In a nutshell, some apps are better than others, and you learn to shop like an OG (Original Gangster). My favorite apps are Hopper, Google Flights, and Momondo. If you do adapt to travel, you will find visiting family to be a fun excursion from a tranquil life into the madness of western society. Yes, you will probably miss people, and then there are those friends and family members who can’t wait to visit your country of choice.
On the whole, with cheap travel, FaceTime, Zoom, and WhatsApp, you have many strategies available to avoid loneliness.
Not having the constant thumping of financial stress and “what exactly am I eating” issues is liberating, but with consequences. If you don’t like international travel, swipe left. If you enjoy new experiences and can manage the emotional challenges of starting over, not being as easily available for family, and transitioning into cold water in the kitchen, swipe right. Solo doesn’t have to be lonely and there are options to living a fulfilling life with all the challenges we face as we age.
You are not old yet and still have much to offer and experience in this crazy world. Many of you aren’t interested in living in South America, and are trying to find ways to manage being solo in your current environment. No matter what, living solo is an art form. From staying inspired, healthy, and engaged, it’s the phase of life you never realized could be so difficult and liberating in the same deep, cleansing breath.
Fist pump.
Are you looking to become an expat? Which country would you choose? Have you done some research? What would be your greatest challenge moving abroad as a solo woman?
You use the word death early in the article. You probably ought to look up its meaning in a dictionary.
All fixed! Thank you for the note!
First let me say I recognized you as the beauty shaman and was shocked you were in Ecuador. This is my dream, to move to South America, either close or high up in the mountains. I love the Spansih language and Latino culture. I’m curious about your daily living, how difficult it was to “set up shop” ie., find an apartment, transportation, and info on health-care. If you have a blog, will you provide the address? Also. If you’re interested, you should do a newsletter on Substack about moving to and living in Ecuador. It’s a hot topic, and many of us are in the transitioning stage. I’m 66 and though the idea of moving to a foreign country is daunting, it’s also exhilarating for me… I want my third quarter to count!!! Great article, it inspires me!!
Check out Gringo Post on facebook it is based out of Cuenca. I live in the north in the mountains in Otavalo where not too many expats live but there is Cotacochi where a lot of expats live. I have lived here for 11 years but vacationed here many times before that.
Personally I prefer living among the local people and you really experience more of the local culture and food.
If you don’t want to or not willing to give up your North American lifestyle Don’t move to Ecuador. I highly recommend you visit Ecuador several times and different places before moving here as a lot of people leave within 2 years.
Thanks for your viewpoint, Shelly. I agree about living among local people is best, and even though I am in Cuenca, I have a few close friends that are locals that don’t let me speak English and have a sense of humor about my Spanglish. Many expats just want to be American in Ecuador rather than adopting the culture. In response to the idea that people should visit a few times before deciding to move, I agree that coming once is a good rule of thumb, but I came “cold turkey” as they say, and loved it. This is also my 7th country to live in so I’m an explorer and love differences.
Hi Patti, OMG thank you so much for your message! I appreciate your thoughts on this, and I have written a few blogs on my site about my experiences. Here is the link: https://thebeautyshaman.com/category/transformation/ I love the idea of a substack on this subject, as many women are solo and wanting to rediscover the world and life abroad! Here is a couple that has a ton of info about Ecuador: https://ameliaandjp.com/about/ Their site contains many of the facts you are looking for. In a nutshell, healthcare IS SO CHEAP, you will spit up. I broke my wrist while out running and the ENTIRE cast, ex-ray, etc cost a total of $200. Amazing. Anyway, I will write more articles about this because this place rocks.
Loved the idea of this! Thanks for the interesting look at the expat life.
I do think something was missed in the editing: would it be ok to suggest a correction?
Early in the essay, we read this:
I don’t think you mean “dearth”—-dearth is a scarcity, a lack. I don’t think you mean a lack of interesting people to connect with! Quite the opposite.
Perhaps you’re looking for the word “plenitude,” or maybe “an abundance” of interesting people?
I hope this helps, and thanks for the happy yet realistic glimpse into making a big change.
🙄
Hi Liz! Thanks so much for picking up on this! Wowza, it went through several readings before publishing and none of us picked up on that (HAHAHAHA!) Many thanks! Are you a professional editor?
also I was struck that you wrote that expats being there, meant interesting people to connect with. But the locals aren’t interesting? Curious.
Hi Gilda, The locals are very interesting! I have several close Ecuadorian friends that are lifelong friends. I was mainly speaking to newcomers to Ecuador that don’t speak Spanish and wonder if they will be able to meet English speakers. I would never put down my wonderful local pals!
Did you edit?
I fixed it. Many thanks to those who pointed it out!
Hi, Suzanne! So glad it was helpful. I’m a retired college professor who has published several books and who now freelances for two publishers. I’m delighted at the idea of traveling solo overseas, and I appreciated your article very much. Thanks,
Liz
I noticed this too. Retired English teacher!
I am an English major so I have no excuse 🙄
Your experience in living solo in Ecuador was so inspiring. I, too, live alone with 4 cats. I downsized and gave everything away and just kept the cats and a few clothes. I am 84 years old and bought a cottage-style home which I am furnishing in a shabby chic decor since my husband is no longer with me. I love the silence and beautiful sunrise and sunsets since I live in a rural subdivision. Thanks for your beautiful story.
Hi Mary, It sounds like you are living a happy life in your new place with your cats. I think that’s the goal; to be happy where we are at! Thanks for sharing
Thank you! It is now fixed!
Hi Liz and Suzanne- looks like we are reading and enjoying the article at the same time, and I too. taught and am newly retired. I’ve just moved to Greece and launched into a passion project called Greek Village Cohousing, which I mention in ny comment, but the similarities in writing and teaching led me to reach out and say hello. We have a wonderful coworking space planned for our Common House because so many of us who retire from teaching end up writing in one capacity or another!?
That’s so cool! We have co-working groups here as well but it’s mostly full of remote workers from all over south America and some Europeans and Americans. It’s wonderful to watch my retired friends pursue their passion projects and engage in life in a new way. Greece sounds amazing, and must be gorgeous. I live at 10,000 feet in the mountains so it’s in the 60’s nearly every day and beautiful. It’s so fun to live in another country!
A plethora of interesting people!
Yes! Lots of great stories and why people are here. Crazy stories, too!
Thanks! Corrected. I am ashamed to say I didn’t catch it either.
Thank you and thanks to you both for such gracious responses. Such a fun article!
This is what Suzanne said, “Here in Cuenca, Ecuador, there are over 10,000 expats from the United States and Europe who are either retired or nearly retired, so there is no dearth of interesting people to connect with. No dearth means there is/ are plenty, correct?
It was corrected thanks to all the wonderful ladies who pointed it out :)
That’s basically what I meant, yes!
They did correct it, yes; the version you are quoting is the corrected one. All set.
This sounds so lovely. I traveled a lot before I was married at 19. I am now a few weeks short of 75 and in 55 years I have been to Mexico and Ireland, with my mom and sisters. My husband won’t go anywhere that isn’t familiar to him and even that is a stretch. I enjoy my own company, I love feeding the deer and birds and if I need company I have friends . My husband was a teacher and football coach. He retired 7 times from coaching. This last year he finally said it was for good. While we’ve had a good life, I feel exhausted and I want something for me now. But I can’t find the will power to go anywhere or the courage to do so. I’m very happy for your life and wish you the very best.
Hi Connie, I think your message resonates with so many women. We are spent. We have given our lives and in fact our very blood to those around us and ask, how can we give to ourselves now? It’s a complicated question. When I moved here many people judged my choice because my daughters were in college. Everything has worked out well, though, Both are independent and strong women and I am happy where I am. Each situation is different! Maybe start small with things that give you energy and go from there:)
Thank you, Suzanne, for the encouragement. I will do that.
We are all sisters!
I think the misuse of the word “dearth” is afoot! It’s either that or the absence of the word “no” in front of it. I don’t think you meant to say there is a LACK of interesting people, as it was written, “so there is a dearth of interesting people to connect with.”
Thank you for pointing this out!